We need to shout about British food – here’s why

The last two years have seen intriguing British winners in the Great Taste Awards’ three stars category. Lamb faggots. Seeded flour. Poly-floral honey from, would you believe, south London – and a food that doesn’t even sound British: black garlic miso paste.

What’s behind the trend to buy local and British?

Conscious consumerism, education, discovery and Brexit are the key factors. Some artisan cheese producers lost 60-75% of their income when hospitality shut. A surge of save-British-cheese initiatives prompted us to vote with our credit cards to support jobs and livelihoods. Central to this campaign was education. For example, northern retailer Booths put recipes on its website showing shoppers they could use Dewlay’s Garstang White cheese from Lancashire instead of Brie.

Virtual tastings introduced us to new foods, didn’t they?

Yes, and many traded up. Young, digitally native consumers like to experience products in-store (Trendalytics) and while working from home, they explored their local independents and developed new shopping habits.

Do British artisan producers still need our support?

Absolutely. In a recent newsletter from Neal’s Yard Dairy, export team member Gemma blogs about the complexities of shipping animal products to the EU. Small producers of meat and dairy products in particular need our custom.

Am I right that charcutiers suffered less from loss of restaurant trade?

Sarah Kennedy, co-owner of Marsh Pig, said, ‘“Chefs work on tight margins so we make very little. We’ve done much better from online sales direct to the public and through the delis who started delivery services.” Look out for their new Black Olive Salami.

Another thriving charcutier is Capreolus Fine Foods of Dorset who launched their New Forest Pannage ham made from rare-breed British lops at January’s Delishops Discovers. Fans say it rivals the very best Spanish Jamon de Bellota and, ironically, Brexit has made British cured meats relatively more affordable.

Will food costs go up after Brexit?

A British Retail Consortium spokeswoman told us, “The only comprehensive analysis of the (trade deal) effects on Gross Domestic Product (GDP) growth so far has come from the European Commission. It estimates effect on UK GDP in 2021 and 2022 of -2.25% due to the effects of non-tariff barriers (paperwork) created on cross-border trade.”

I feel a large gin coming on. Where can I find one?

A record number of new distilleries launched in 2020 including one situated over The Cornish Hen deli – Penzance Gin Ltd. We were impressed by Otterbeck Distillery’s enjoyably herbaceous new Cotton Gin, from Yorkshire, which won gold in the London Dry section of The Gin Masters (Spirits Business) 2020. In recent years, there has also been a revival of British craft cidermaking that extends well beyond the Southwest. In an Independent newspaper sampling, tasters rated Orchards of Husthwaite Galtres Gold from north Yorkshire ‘worth seeking out’ for its ‘superb balance of sweet and sharpness’.

What about the beefe of ye olde Englande?

We like James Whelan’s beef and ham and anything from Peter Hannan. A natural approach to rearing pork has seen Lincolnshire’s Redhill Farm scoop numerous awards for everything from pork shoulder to Lincolnshire haslet.

Got any British fusion food – with an exotic twist?

We couldn’t get enough of Mandira’s Kitchen Gin & Orange Chutney which goes a treat with fishcakes and kedgeree. The oranges are a waste product from the gin-makers, Silent Pool, next door who use only the peel and pith in their new citrus gin. Check out Mandira’s site for quality frozen meals, too.

We also like Wasabi Mustard and Black Garlic Miso Paste – umami-rich fermented soybean paste seasoning for dressings and marinades – made in Northern Ireland by Craic Foods.

How can we make the most of the British and local trend?

• Keep talking to new customers from lockdown on social media.

• Keep solving the ‘what’s for dinner’ dilemma. How about support-your-local-producer cold grazing platters, expertly curated by you?

• Celebrate the seasons. Suggest accompaniments for asparagus, watercress, gooseberries and so on throughout the year.

• Nostalgia is comforting. Consider eat-back-in-time promotions with recipes, everything from elderflower syllabub to Horlicks cookies. Horlicks now comes in a vegan version.

• Exploit the popularity of the pre-selected meal box and launch your own.

Will the British trend continue?

We think it will. In the medium term, many will feel safer holidaying at home, which means they’ll spend money in local farm shops and delis.

Britain’s superior animal welfare standards are on trend for anyone trying to eat less but better meat. Conversely, we have been a world leader (2018, Mintel) at launching new vegan foods.

Are we typically British in being too modest about what we do well? “Shoppers would be willing to pay significantly higher prices for British artisan cheese if producers improved their marketing, branding and storytelling,” says campaigner Francis Gimblett, author of Gimblett’s Guide to the Best of British Cheese. This applies just as much to other products, from sashimi-grade smoked salmon to raspberry liqueur. Conscious consumers love any product with a good story. So get storytelling.