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Get your free copyIn 2025, beer is everywhere. At retailers of all sizes – not to mention pubs, bars and ‘home bars’ created during lockdown – beer is an integral part of British society. But for such a historically important drink, little is known about its past and how it came to be so popular today. So popular, in fact, that there are now more breweries springing up than ever before – and home brew kits are inviting beer fans to create their ultimate pint in the comfort of their kitchens and garages.
A drink rich in history
As Peter Haydon, beer historian, ex-SIBA general secretary and owner of Cat In A Hat Brewing, explains, beer is far from a modern invention. “The origins of beer lie in the Fertile Crescent, what is now Iran and Iraq, around 5,000 years ago,” he begins. “And Ancient Egypt was a beer-based civilisation because it was based on cereals.”
Moving forward a few centuries, Peter explains that the British were referred to by the Romans as Sons of Malt because we produced and drank beer rather than the wine that they consumed.
“People tend to forget our culinary history, but beer is historically one of our most valuable commodities,” says Peter. “The purposes of the original licensing magistrates was not to suppress rowdy pubs, it was to ensure that everyone had a supply of beer. And fast forwarding to the Industrial Revolution, beer not only powered the workers but also inspired the rise of steam engines as tools as they were heavily used by the porter breweries of London.”
While ale was the original ‘beer’, in the fifteenth century its production was revolutionised by the introduction of hops which added a preservative element to brews, Peter explains. The fact that hops stretched the ingredients allowed for economies of scale, growing the size of the beer market exponentially, and it wasn’t long before beer became a hot political topic.
In the mid-Victorian era, temperance became an important movement – supported by their being safe alternatives, including people being able to boil water to make tea - “but this ended after the First World War,” explains Peter, “as you couldn’t tell soldiers coming home from the front that they weren’t allowed to drink a beer.”
Today, beer plays a much-loved role in our lives – and there’s a lot to discover within our own shores as well as beyond.
The varied tastes of Europe
According to award-winning beer writer and consultant to the EU’s More Than Only Food & Drink campaign, Mark Dredge, the traditional beers of central Europe are well worth bearing in mind to refresh your beer selection. “So many of the world’s classical beer styles come from central Europe, and I think any serious beer retailer should have these in stock,” he says. Germany’s easy-drinking Kolsch PGI is one example, as is Duvel beer from Belgium, a strong blonde ale with notes of raisins and dried fruits. Trappist monk-brewed beer varies in taste according to producer, says Mark, but is renowned for its quality; genuine articles bear the Authentic Trappist Beer label.
While a number of Speciality Food readers will stock food products which allow customers to reminisce about their holidays abroad, few will do the same for beer – but this is a missed opportunity, says Mark. “When I travel, I like to try the local beer,” he says, “as it informs a lot about the people and place, the climate and food. You always find that the most popular types of beer in any given place pair really well with the most common, working class foods.” British bitters are perfect partners for classic pub grub, and the same is true of German lagers, which are delicious served with schnitzel or sausages – a potentially valuable upselling opportunity.
Brits may be open minded when it comes to the beer they drink – the rise of the craft beer sector with its kaleidoscope of cans is testament to that – and we can learn a thing or two from the drinking cultures of Europe, says Mark. “Take Germany for example,” he says. “It’s all very regional, so you are most likely to drink the beer that is produced nearby. If you’re in Munich, you’re drinking beer brewed in Munich. If you’re in Berlin, you’re drinking beer brewed in Berlin. There’s very much an appreciation of regionality there.” With farm shops, food halls and delis proud ambassadors of their local food and drink scene, this is well worth strong consideration.
“Moving to the hotter countries such as Spain, you find that beer is consumed less frequently,” says Mark – more as a refreshing glass with some food rather than a drink to enjoy through the night. “Whereas in colder countries the beers might be a bit stronger and the drinking a little heavier.”
Interestingly, in Italy, the beer scene is thriving as younger generations are keen to move beyond the wine drinking of their parents’ generation (and far beyond) says Mark. This thirst for new experiences is also present in the UK’s beer sector, he continues. “Consumers probably enter the scene with popular modern British beers, then maybe start looking at what your local breweries are making and appreciating the skills and nuance of what they do. From this understanding comes a desire to diversify a bit, which is an opportunity to discover the European classics.”
How to sell beer well
Understanding the market is key to boosting consumers’ confidence to explore, says Mark, and while supermarkets may be upping their game when it comes to stocking great quality beer, the true heart of expertly crafted brews – and the education around them – undoubtedly lies with independents. Ed Barnes, founder of the Hopsters group of Suffolk and Essex-based craft beer shops and bars, says that bricks and mortar plays a vital role here.
“We don’t just sell beer – we tell its story,” he says. “I can guide someone to their perfect beer based on what they like, or introduce them to something new they never would’ve tried online. Equally, customers can pick up a bottle or can, check out the label art, feel the weight, and get that instant sensory impression. Beer shops often look like art galleries with the incredible labels on show!” By offering a selection of great beers in a bricks and mortar format, Ed says, you’re not only opening the door to unexpected discoveries but potentially creating a hub, too: “a place for like-minded beer lovers to connect, chat, and geek out over hops.” Indeed, Ed recommends curating the layout of your beer section to feel like browing a record store or bookshop: “fun, chill, and discovery-driven.”
Tasting events – including beer and food pairings – meet the brewer nights and tap takeovers have all proven successful at Hopsters sites, but Ed has plenty of tips for day-to-day beer retail too. “Learn the styles, the breweries, and the stories behind the beers. People appreciate good recommendations that feel personal,” he says, “and be passionate but not snobby. You don’t need to be a beer geek to enjoy craft – so be welcoming to all, whether they’re seasoned hopheads or total newcomers.”
Making it approachable is key. “Ditch the jargon unless they ask for it,” says Ed. “Compare styles to wines, spirits, or foods if that helps someone understand it. Cheese is a really good one to compare it to as the varieties really pair up nicely.” First steps? “Find out what someone likes and guide them from there. A good chat often ends in a basket full of beer.”
When it comes to what to stock, Ed recommends finding a careful balance. “You want a solid mix that covers core styles while staying on trend.” Must-stocks at Hopsters include crowd-pleasing easy-drinking session IPAs or juicy hazies, stouts and porters – “especially in cooler months, but also for year-round fans of darker styles” – rustic and food-friendly saisons or farmhouse ales, and alcohol-free options: “growing fast and often overlooked.”
The craft beer sector is undoubtedly trending, so stocking a few more niche styles in line with what shoppers want now is a good move. “Fruited sours and goses are especially popular with younger drinkers, and have taken over from cider as the fruity drink of choice,” says Ed, while cold IPAs and West Coast options are offering a clean bitterness and crisp finish that pair brilliantly with food.
For shoppers keen to try something new but nervous to traverse too far from what they’re familiar with, modern small-batch British lagers offer real character, while barrel-aged and mixed fermentation beers are perfect for more adventurous drinkers, says Ed. “Mixed fermentation beers are the ultimate pairing beer when it comes to food.”
Speciality Food readers are innate supporters of their region’s food producers, so expand your reach to local breweries to really speak your customers’ language. “Make sure the range includes local breweries too – that’s a huge selling point in smaller shops and food markets and helps connect you with your community and resonate with people,” Ed concludes.