The cheeses that I love: Steve Parker

Steve Parker is a former cheesemonger and respected authority on cheese, who’s written several books on the topic, and is a regular judge at top cheese awards.

Here he shares the cheeses he adores most.

Montgomery’s Cheddar, Montgomery Cheese

It is almost impossible to select only one Cheddar from the several truly excellent ones made on Britain, but given that the first date I took my wife on was to Manor Farm to help milk the cows and make the cheese (what a romantic!), how could I choose anything but Jamie Montgomery’s mature, brothy, meaty, complex and long-lasting Cheddar?

Wiltshire Loaf, Brinkworth Dairy

Not the best-known cheese in Britain, but the uniqueness and provenance make it a real favourite of mine. First made at Brinkworth Dairy in Wiltshire by cheesemaker Ceri Cryer’s great grandfather to a 250-year-old recipe, it is mentioned by Jane Austin in two books. Its crumbly texture, creamy mouthfeel and honeyed hay flavour make it a special cheese in my list. 

Gert Lush, Feltham’s Farm

With a name meaning ‘very lovely’ in Somerset dialect, this reimagined Camembert style cheese is made at Feltham’s Farm by Marcus Fergusson and Penny Nagle. Using only organic milk, the rich buttery cheese with a hint of citrussy mushroom is a real delight.

Witheridge in Hay, Nettlebed Creamery

Nettlebed Creamery in Oxfordshire makes this slightly sweet almost Alpine style cheese with the bite of a
mature Cheddar and then ages it in fresh hay followed by dried hay. The result is a fresh, tangy cheese with a lingering finish.

Sinodun Hill, Norton & Yarrow

Norton & Yarrow moved from Oxfordshire to West Wales where Fraser Norton and Rachel Yarrow continue to make this beautiful flattened pyramid goats’ cheese. Soft and delicate with a geotrichum wrinkled rind, the flavour is reminiscent of the hazelnut yogurts of my childhood, with a silky mouth coating but fresh richness.

Gorwydd Caerphilly, Trethowan Brothers

Starting its life in Wales but now made in Somerset by Trethowan Brothers, this classic cheese is matured for up to three months to produce a soft velvety rind enclosing what is often referred to as three cheeses in one. A mushroomy rind, creamy breakdown layer and a citrus crumbly centre.

Rachael Reserva, White Lake Cheese

Less well known than its younger stable mate, this older, spelled differently version has been aged in an Alpine style for 12 months to produce a sweet, nutty savoury tasting cheese that has been described as being similar in flavour to a roast dinner.

Cornish Blue, The Cornish Cheese Co

The iconic cheese made by Phil Stansfield of The Cornish Cheese Co, is made at the first cheese dairy I ever visited and therefore holds a special place in my heart. The cheese itself is equally special, with a milder tang than many blue cheeses, and a rich buttery texture and finish.

Old Winchester, Lyburn Farm

Mike Smales at Lyburn Farm in Wiltshire created this cheese by maturing one of his existing cheeses for a full 18 months. It is the shape and flavour of an aged Gouda, with a nod towards a Parmesan and a vintage Cheddar. Brittle and crumbly with hints of nutty caramel, this cheese is bursting with lingering flavour.

Baron Bigod, Fen Farm Dairy

Made at Fen Farm in Suffolk using rich creamy milk from Jonny Crickmore’s herd of Montbeliardes to a Brie de Meaux recipe. The soft white rind with flavours of mushrooms and hazelnuts encloses a delicate silky soft centre.