The cheeses that I love: Chris Hallam, Chorlton Cheesemongers

I think, like so many cheesemongers and makers, favourite cheeses change though the year, along with the seasons, as particular cheeses respond to weather, pasture and the complexity of the milk. I know my favourite changes on what brings comfort for that particular season and my mood.

However, in April this year we had our fifth birthday. Five years of bringing brilliant cheese to the people of Chorlton and Manchester, and most recently, to passengers from all over the country travelling through Manchester Airport. Part of our celebration was to ask our staff, past and present, for their top five favourite cheeses which we highlighted throughout April. Needless to say, we ended up with more than five, but there was general consensus for the following.

Brightwell Ash, Norton & Yarrow Cheese

This delicate, rich, soft goats’ cheese made by Rachel Yarrow & Fraser Norton, now recently moved to a new farm in Llangadog, Carmarthenshire, has always been a huge favourite with us and customers. It is cheese that can convince the most hardened disliker of goats’ cheese to give it a go. In fact, I once converted a family in a blind tasting who ended up buying five to take back to Brazil! Brightwell Ash, along with its equally excellent sister cheese, Sinodun Hill, are my go-to cheeses when I need a perk up. After a small pause as Rachel and Fraser moved their herd and dairy to Wales, the cheese is back, as magnificent as ever.

Mrs Kirkham’s Mild & Creamy Lancashire, Mrs Kirkham’s Cheese

There a few pleasures better than regularly re-discovering a great British territorial cheese, and none more so than taking a crafty slice of Kirkham’s Lancashire and being reminded how great it is. Buttery, light, sharp and bright, it surprises and makes people smile. I particularly like Lancashire young, so we sell them around five to six weeks old while still very ‘alive’. We also sell a mature, which can be as old as we can get it, but each January we buy a handful of 20kg ones and sit on them until Christmas ensuring we have a good supply of full-flavoured Lancs just when we really need them. We currently have some really special ones lined up for Christmas 2025.

Gubbeen, Gubbeen Cheese

In our survey this cheese was chosen by virtually everyone. This gently ‘farmy’ rich and nutty washed rind, is a top comfort cheese. Again, it surprises people who ‘don’t like smelly cheese’, one taste and it’s sold. This cheese, totally unique to Co. Cork, is the perfect complement to a cheeseboard and has been a staple in our cheese boxes ever since we opened.

Pevensey Blue, Pevensey Cheese

Made by Martin and Hazel Tkalez in East Sussex. It’s been a real pleasure being involved with this cheese right from the start. In the early days it was a Gorgonzola-like cheese - sweet, soft, unctuous. Now it’s a firmer, sharper blue but still with those beautiful sweet notes, sometimes funky, sometimes smooth and warm but always a pleasure to eat. Pevensey Blue gained a big fan base early on with staff and customers alike.

Duckett’s Caerphilly, Westcombe Dairy

This is an all-time favourite of mine. The mushroomy middle, the slighty softer breakdown towards the edge, and the earthy aroma/taste of the rind. It’s gentle, unshowy, quality! Also, a great dairy with a cracking vision for sustainable farming.

They were the top five from the staff, but a couple of others which are in my personal chart are:

Wakebridge, Wakebridge Manor

A new sheep’s cheese by John Bailey and Daniel Mason. This is a stunner! A sweet, firm cheese, with great complexity. They have been seriously producing this cheese for only 18 months, so to have made such a beautiful addition to the British cheese scene in that time is a real skill. It sits on our counter alongside the other greats (Corra Linn, Spenwood) with absolute pride.

And I cannot let a list like this be compiled without…

Appleby’s Cheshire, Appleby’s Dairy

Made by Paul & Sarah Appleby in Shrewsbury. This juicy, sharp (mouth-watering) Cheshire has all that traditional mineralness followed by a long lasting brothy aftertaste. Although the farm is in Shropshire, the cows are grazed on the Cheshire Plains, giving the milk that distinctive mineral quality needed for the best Cheshire. We have regular discussions with customers as to which is the correct Cheshire to be selling in the North, white or red? On the whole, we have the white (Northern) Cheshire, but at the moment we have a batch of excellent red (Southern) Cheshire. I love the cultural nuances of cheese! Appleby’s Cheshire is a great riposte to those who say that Cheshire cheese is on the wane. This cheese is unapologetic, full-flavoured and a pure delight.