The cheeses that I love: Lily Morris, Morris’ of Usk

From cheese and Marmite sandwiches and after-school snacks to launching and running her family’s deli counter at the age of 20, Lily Morris started her love of – and life in – cheese young. Her thoughtful approach to curating the cheeses that go behind her counter, and her passion for the job, saw her named Young Cheesemonger of the Year at the World Cheese Awards in 2023.

“It really is impossible to say what my favourite cheeses are, that’s like asking a parent which child is their favourite!” says Lily, who shares her love of cheese as @thepetitecheese on Instagram.

Here, she gives it her best shot to pick her top 10 cheeses.

Pitchfork Cheddar, Trethowan Brothers

A Cheddar like no other. Made in North Somerset by the Trethowan Brothers and their team. Named after the pitchforks used to salt the curds. Traditional, cloth-bound and made with raw milk, but with a twist. As well as Holstein Friesian milk they use Jersey milk, which adds an extra layer to the paste. It has a succulent, creamy mouthfeel, with savoury beef broth notes, finishing with a juicy acidity. I always pair it with a crisp in-season apple.

Baron Bigod, Fen Farm Dairy

A British brie style that definitely stands up to the French, even perhaps making them feel a little envious. Made by Jonny Crickmore and his team at Fen Farm in Suffolk. He has adopted the same traditional methods they use to make the classics, like the pelle-à-brie ladle and doing everything by hand. Under its wrinkly bloomy rind, a rich golden paste can be found, buttery with lingering vegetal notes. I love stuffing figs with it and then wrapping them with Parma ham.

Welbeck Stichelton, Welbeck Estate

A stunning raw milk blue made by Joe Schneider and his team on the Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire. As it isn’t pasteurised it can’t be classed as a stilton, but personally I think that makes it even more special as it stands on its own, a historical blue revived. A creamy sometimes crumbly mouthfeel with deep umami flavour and biscuity notes towards the rind. Fresh ripe pear goes nicely with it.

La Oveja Negra Manchego

This cheese I never get bored of. It is so easy to eat! Not just any Manchego, though, this is made by the Parra family in La Mancha, central Spain. The rind is beautiful with a fresh lanolin scent. It’s nutty and herbaceous, sweet with a balanced saltiness. This drizzled with honey… Chef’s kiss.

Feta PDO

Classic and so versatile, the humble feta. A Greek brined cheese, protected since 2002. There is so much you can do with it, and I always have some in my fridge. Salty and nutty with a lasting zesty acidity. As it is made from sheep’s and goats’ milk it has a lovely lingering tang. Whipped feta topped with pomegranate seeds, pistachios and honey is next level.

Killeen Goat Gouda, Killeen Farmhouse Cheese

A cheese that helped me win young cheesemonger of the year. A beautiful goat gouda made in Galway by Marion Roeleveld. It breaks the tradition of usual Gouda, as she uses goats’ milk instead of cow’s milk; resulting in a sweet, nutty paste, floral notes and a gentle goat flavour. I love it with sticky fig jam.

Yoredale Wensleydale, Curlew Dairy

I just love this cheese. It is in another league compared to Wensleydale with cranberries. A traditional raw milk Wensleydale made by Ben and Sam Spence in Wensley. It has a supple buttery mouthfeel with a fresh lactic acidity and lemony notes. No sharpness here. Pairs well with a sweet fruit chutney.

Comté Marcel Petite

An absolute classic French hard cooked cheese, from the Jura mountain region. Affineured by Marcel Petite, it’s smooth, fruity, nutty and has a long finish. It pairs well with walnuts, drawing out the nuttiness.

Birba Blu

A cheese I discovered when I went to Italy for Bra cheese festival. This Italian blue is soaked in the Rosso family’s artisan blonde ale, Margot, and then rolled in malted barley. Creamy mouthfeel, fruity, salty with an intense blue finish. It goes nicely with a damson jam.

Wild Garlic Yarg, Lynher Dairy

This little beauty is the cheese I always take a slice of for lunch. It’s made by Lynher Dairy in Cornwall, and is wrapped in wild garlic leaves. The paste is very creamy, lemony with that subtle hint of garlic. It’s the perfect cheese for something light. Usually I eat it on a Peter’s Yard sourdough cracker.