Modern cheese pairing: what you need to know

From classic combinations to out-there options, cheese pairings can be a fun way to engage with customers, try new flavours and bump up basket spend, all at the same time.

Speciality Food spoke to five cheesemongers to hear which cheese pairings are exciting them this year.

A year of cheese pairings

Dan Bliss, retail manager at Paxton & Whitfield, talks us through her ultimate accompaniments, season by season

In the winter months, my favourite styles of cheese are big and rich alpine styles, think Gruyere or Comte, the savoury quality of them means that they work well with an accompaniment with a bit of bite, and I think pickled fruits and vegetables are ideal. There are some incredible British versions of these styles of cheeses really coming into their own – I am really enjoying Ashcombe and Corinium. Classically, I would pair with a Cornichon, for something more unusual, pickled quince or pickled pears. Also fabulous with kimchi if you like a touch of heat too.

In the spring months, the cheese world gets excited about new season goat’s milk cheeses – the milk is fresh and the cheeses that are made with this milk are just bursting with juicy acidity. One of the oldest pairings in the world is cheese and honey, and I think it’s still pretty unbeatable. Try Acacia honeycomb with a goat’s cheese with a mousse like texture like Sinodun or Dorstone for divine salty sweet combo.

In the summer, I enjoy lighter, brighter cheeses – especially those made with sheep’s milk. Cullum and Corra Linn are too excellent British examples, think Manchego or Pecorino if you are looking for continental cousins. Often with a good salty acidity, you need something to pair that balances out this profile. I love pairing cheese with nuts – almonds would work well here, as would cashews and hazelnuts. Perfect with a glass of something chilled!

The autumn for me is synonymous with British orchard fruit. I think a crisp apple is one of the most perfect things to pair with cheese. Perfect with traditional English cheeses like a proper clothbound Cheddar such as a Montgomery or a more crumbly textured cheese like a Yoredale Wensleydale or Kirkhams Lancashire.

Consider cocktails

Morgan McGlynn-Parr of Cheeses of Muswell Hill makes some inventive cocktail pairing suggestions

Gorgonzola and Negroni
Negroni is an intensely bitter and alcoholic aperitivo, made with equal parts Campari, gin and sweet vermouth. The bitterness is just what this Gorgonzola needs to bring out its biting quality, cutting through the creaminess of the paste.   

The fiery alcohol of the Negroni is restrained by the milky mouthfeel of this mild Gorgonzola. The Negroni’s citrussy aroma, thanks to the traditional orange-peel garnish and the oils it imparts, provides roundedness. The sweet-sour notes balance the bitterness in the other elements of the cocktail and the earthy, savoury notes in the aroma of the cheese.

Cheddar and Whisky Sour
A good strong Cheddar has exactly the acidity and tanginess that this cocktail needs to complement its sour flavours – in the whiskey and the lemon juice. Hold a piece of strong Cheddar on your tongue and as it melts; you’ll find an underlying nutty sweetness in its aroma that lingers in the finish.   

The Whiskey Sour lives up to its name (not only in the lemon juice, but in the whiskey itself), so take a sip after that finish and enjoy the contrast. Not only does egg white bring the drink its characteristic froth, its creamy, meringue-like flavour tempers all that sourness. The soft froth itself balances out the harsh intensity of the alcohol.

Quickfire pairings

Top pairings from three master cheesemongers

Francisco and Sabina Perello, The Cheese Hole

“Our fave example is Dark Chocolate (75%) with hard cheeses, especially aged Alpines/ Cheddars and Manchego. They have been doing this in Europe for years and we are having some great success in introducing the concept. The key is to have high cocoa with low bitterness. Exquisite!”

George Hammond, Georgonzola

“I love putting sour beer with things like Renegade Monk and Rebel Nun from Feltham’s Farm. They cut through the funk.”

Bruno Zoccola, Valentina Deli

“People are moving away from the idea that cheese always needs a traditional chutney, and they’re starting to experiment more: honey with blue cheese like gorgonzola, fruit confits with goat’s cheese, that kind of thing. There’s more curiosity around regional Italian pairings too. Customers seem more confident mixing flavours and textures and are looking for accompaniments that feel a bit more special without being complicated.”