The art of cheese pairing

Finding the perfect pairings for cheeses is a true art form, not least because of the kaleidoscope of options available – not to mention the varying tastes and preferences of your customers and what they have a hankering for at any given time.

It’s easy to think this is a case of stick or twist – do you stick to the pairings you and your customers know (a punchy chutney with a strong cheese, or a slightly sweeter preserve with a delicate goat or sheep’s milk cheese) or get confident with your own tasting skills and put some of your personal favourites out there, however ‘weird’ and wacky they may appear to some?

“It depends on the audience and the cheese, but you have to be careful that you don’t overpower the cheese with the pairing,” advises Maria Whitehead of Hawkshead Relish. “Often a condiment that is too strong dominates the cheese. I would look closely at texture and gentle flavours that work with the cheese and be careful to select the right combination so a softer milder cheese might work well with a texture such as fig but not a strong rich black garlic pickle for example. I have combined a soft goats’ cheese with our Fig & Orange Jam and that works brilliantly, and although designed as a sweet rather than a savoury condiment; with the texture, fruit and sweetness it works really well.”

Products that strike the delicate balance between delighting adventurous foodies and not putting more traditional customers off are a surefire success. “These days consumers are also looking for something a bit different, yet safe to give guests,” continues Maria. “Our Beetroot & Horseradish Chutney, Damson Chutney and our Fig and Cinnamon Chutney and Chilli Jam are all favourites, we also have the aptly named Cheeseboard Chutney as this is fabulously fruity with Figs, Cranberries, Apples and a dash of Pinot Noir. It works so well with a myriad of cheeses from soft to strong, including blue cheese, the figs give great texture and depth and the fruit cuts through and brings out the flavour of the cheese without overpowering it.

“If you can combine the flavour and as importantly the texture with the right cheese, it can be a beautiful match that elevates the cheeseboard.”

At Paxton & Whitfield, Dan Bliss takes an analytical approach to cheese pairings. “There are a couple of ways you can approach pairings. Firstly, there is the old adage; what grows together, goes together. Cheddars from the West Country (Westcombe, Montgomerys, Pitchfork to name just three) are delicious with locally grown ciders for example like Honeys of Midford or Piltons Keeved Cider,” she begins. “Alternatively, look for pairings that are either harmonious or contrasting. A salty blue like a Stilton contrasts perfectly with a touch of sweetness like a caramelised onion chutney. A funky washed rind, like Yarlington or Maida Vale have meaty qualities that are in tune with charcuterie – I really like Cornish Charcuterie’s Pink Peppercorn Salami.”

Paxton & Whitfield’s customers offer the business the perfect opportunity to experiment – but play around with the classics at your peril. “I think we would have riots if our piccalilli ever changed recipe. We have people travel the world over to stock up – it’s just so beautifully British with a good chunk of cheese and a proper pork pie. But I do think people adore trying new things, food can be such an easy way to explore from the comfort of our own home. We have recently listed a Pickled Fennel and the team have had great fun trying different cheeses to pair it with, so far the favourite has been Cornish Yarg and Pickled Fennel!”

At Stag Bakeries, classic product combinations win out, says Daniel Smith, but there’s still an appetite for adventure. “In our experience, classic cheese varieties will always remain mainstays on the cheeseboard – when we ask consumers what they like to pair with their crackers, Cheddar, Stilton and Brie still come up the most, especially in the winter months when people are reaching for familiar comforts. But we also have customers who are looking for novel tasting experiences first and foremost, and for them local speciality cheeses and artisanal condiments seem to be of particular interest.

“In our experience, consumers are very well versed now not just on UK cheeses but on Continental cheeses too. There’s a vast selection to choose from and we notice a real eagerness from consumers to broaden their palates. This is very exciting as a cracker producer because we now look to offer a wider range of biscuit textures and flavours to match this and go with particular types of cheese. We have seen a real uptick in people pairing their cheese and crackers with speciality pickles, chutneys and pâtés from UK producers too – there’s a host of award-winning options out there for consumers to choose from to compliment the cheeses they have carefully selected.”

Mike Knowlden of Perennial Wine believes that cheese and wine pairings are worth a second look.
“Good retailers will have a strong sense of their customers and how their tastes fit on a spectrum from traditional to innovative,” he says. “Even food adventurers can be drawn to traditional comforts, so it’s wise to have some classics alongside recommendations that might push people to try something new.

“On the classic side, Vin Jaune with Comté is my number one. Although it’s a classic it’s still under the radar for many as the wine is much less well-known than the cheese. Vin Jaune is fascinating, with its nuttiness complementing the Comté whilst the super crunchy-apple acidity cuts through. Another favourite is soft, washed-rind cheese with sparkling wine. This could be a traditional style like a Crémant de Loire, or something more playful like a Pét-Nat or Col Fondo. These methods have been embraced by natural winemakers in recent years and can have more yeasty, savoury flavours to complement the funkiness of the cheese. I really enjoy sparkling wine with cheese at the end of a meal, as it feels enlivening compared with the weight of a big red wine.

“People’s tastes in wine are changing towards lighter, fresher styles and it’s fun to reflect this in cheese pairing. Lighter wines tend to have plenty of acidity, and this is great at keeping things refreshing in the face of rich cheese. That said, I don’t think we have yet established new classics that have the recognition of Sauternes with Stilton, for example.”

Sweet wines deserve their time in the spotlight, says Mike. “I think good sweet wines absolutely deserve more attention and are often great value for the complexity and joy they offer. I’m keen to keep recommending that people try them, especially with salty cheeses. These wines usually have great acidity to keep things balanced too.”

Branching out is key to inspiring exciting new pairings, he continues. “A couple of things I’m seeing a bit more of and would like to suggest are to look beyond just wine and to look beyond just the famous cheese origins. In particular artisanal cider can be a great pairing for cheese, and there are lots of amazing producers in the UK. A few favourites include Little Pomona, Wilding and Naughton. Cider often has some tannin, or mouthwatering acidity – or both – which counterpoint the cheese. Apples and cheese work just as well as grapes and cheese! With regard to cheese diversity, so many countries around Europe also make brilliant cheeses that are available here. I’ve been enjoying a couple from Greek islands this year based on sheep and goat milk, such as Graviera Kritis and Arseniko, for example.”

Bruno Zoccola from Valentina Deli believes that there’s room for both tradition and innovation when it comes to cheese pairing. “At Valentina Deli we stock everything from classic chutneys and pickles to more unusual, artisan pairings, so it really depends on the cheese. I always say you should match the strength of the accompaniment to the cheese itself. A delicate cheese doesn’t need anything too bold - honey is perfect here, especially our truffle-infused version, or a lighter honey if you want something softer. With stronger cheeses, you can go bigger and pair them with a punchy pickle or chutney.”

“Our honey range is brilliant with softer cheeses, particularly the truffle honeys,” he continues. “The fruit confits work really well too if you want something a bit different. Personally, I always end up coming back to mostarda from Northern Italy. It’s got the right mix of sweetness and gentle heat, and it works with loads of cheeses. Not many non-Italian customers go for it, but it’s always on my cheeseboard. Classic caramelised onion chutney is still a favourite, and the fig and pear confits have really taken off recently as people look for something a little different.

“People are moving away from the idea that cheese always needs a traditional chutney, and they’re starting to experiment more: honey with blue cheese like Gorgonzola, fruit confits with goats’ cheese, that kind of thing,” he says. “There’s more curiosity around regional Italian pairings too. Customers seem more confident mixing flavours and textures and are looking for accompaniments that feel a bit more special without being complicated.”

Think seasonal

Dan Bliss of Paxton & Whitfield guides us through the cheese pairing year

In the winter months my favourite styles of cheese are big and rich Alpine styles - think Gruyère or Comté. The savoury quality of them means that they work well with an accompaniment with a bit of bite, and I think pickled fruits and vegetables are ideal. There are some incredible British versions of these styles of cheeses really coming into their own – I am really enjoying Ashcombe and Corinium. Classically, I would pair with a cornichon, for something more unusual, pickled quince or pickled pears. Also fabulous with kimchi if you like a touch of heat too.

In the spring months, the cheese world gets excited about new season goats’ milk cheeses – the milk is fresh, and the cheeses that are made with this milk are just bursting with juicy acidity. One of the oldest pairings in the world is cheese and honey, and I think its still pretty unbeatable. Try Acacia honeycomb with a goats’ cheese with a mousse-like texture like Sinodun or Dorstone for divine salty sweet combo.

In the summer, I enjoy lighter, brighter cheeses – especially those made with sheep’s milk. Cullum and Corra Linn are two excellent British examples. Think Manchego or Pecorino if you are looking for continental cousins. Often with a good salty acidity, you need something to pair that balances out this profile. I love pairing cheese with nuts – almonds would work well here, as would cashews and hazelnuts. Perfect with a glass of something chilled!

The autumn for me is synonymous with British orchard fruit. I think a crisp apple is one of the most perfect things to pair with cheese. Perfect with traditional English cheeses like a proper clothbound Cheddar such as a Montgomery or a more crumbly textured cheese like a Yoredale Wensleydale or Kirkhams Lancashire.

Bloomy-rinded cheeses are notoriously tricky to pair with, particularly with wine. I personally like pairing something like Baron Bigod from Suffolk or Dozmary from Cornwall with a preserve with a little warmth. Think a tomato chutney with tamarind, or a mango chutney with cumin seeds. I love decadent cream enriched cheeses with frozen grapes. Going completely wild – try Stichelton with a dark chocolate digestive biscuit and thank me later!