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Just as churches, libraries and public houses often form the backbone of a social infrastructure, specialist fine food shops are stepping to the fore not only as places to buy products, but as social institutions that provide value for the customer that transcends the items on the shelves. Nor is the seller-consumer relationship a one-way transaction; with more customers choosing to shop local and support indies, indie retailers are simultaneously showing their support for local producers and communities, whether that’s by stocking locally-made wares, championing local events and initiatives, or donating to worthwhile causes.
As customer preferences and habits change, the role and format of retail continues to evolve. Nowhere is this more evident than in the indie sector where indie stores, delis and farm shops are taking on key roles in the community.
“We think a deli’s role is far bigger than simply selling food,” explains Mark Kacary of The Norfolk Deli. “A good deli should champion producers, tell stories, share knowledge and create experiences that supermarkets simply can’t replicate.”
For Mark, being a gateway between the producer and customer is key, with many customers discovering Norfolk cheeses, local spirits and artisan products through him for the first time. “Part of our role is to help people understand where products come from, who makes them and why they’re special. Recently, a regular customer of ours was talking about their plans for the weekend and how they needed to buy something special for one of their guests who had a lactose intolerance. We had a discussion and it was news to him that in fact most hard/mature cheeses have virtually no lactose in them at all.”
As well as educating customers on the topics of provenance, local suppliers and seasonal produce, indies are also growing to become community pillars and hubs – an interesting hark back to the advent of high street retail. “We’re often told that we’re regarded as a community hub,” says Harry Davies, proprietor of London’s De Beauvoir Deli.
“Over the years, our staff have built great relationships with our customers, many of whom have shopped with us since we opened 17 years ago. We’ve employed lots of local young people, offering many teenagers their first jobs. These people have all made a huge contribution to our success.”
Davies, who grew up two hundred yards from the shops, only sees these relationships continuing to build and develop. “Parts of London now function more like urban villages where people shop little and often, rather than planning around a single weekly supermarket trip – and we’ve certainly benefitted from this shift. We’re fortunate to be part of a really vibrant neighbourhood.
“My advice for delis and indies looking to expand their wares from local producers would be to seek out producers at local markets and invest in those relationships: the local promotion and sense of mutual support can be hugely beneficial to both sides,” he says.
This role as community pillar is something the family team behind Macknade have experienced over the years, with there being a long-standing link between farming, food production and community life.
“We come from a farming family. The business is rooted in a farm, and farms have always played a unique role in communities and provide infrastructure. Even now, we still have people coming in saying they used to visit as children,” explains Macknade CEO, Stefano Cuomo. “Historically, farms have always relied on community support during harvests and have provided entry-level jobs, and a lot of produce would historically be sold through local towns. Because farms are physical places people can visit, they become reference points within a community. People might visit a deli weekly, whereas they might visit a restaurant less often. That means we become a touchpoint and reference point within the community and a conduit between producer and consumer, telling their stories. We talk about bringing the community together around incredible food and drink, so anything we do needs to feed into that central narrative of what it means to its community.”
“One of the things independents offer that larger retailers often can’t is conversation, familiarity and human connection,” agrees Kacary. “People come in to ask for cheeseboard advice, gift ideas, picnic recommendations or simply to discover something new. Regular customers often stop for a chat, and visitors that we see year after year frequently ask for recommendations about Norfolk food and drink more generally. Food has a wonderful way of creating conversation and connection, and delis naturally become places where those interactions happen.”
Specialist indie retailers also help contribute to a concept known as the ‘local pound’.
“The power of the local pound is something we see every single day,” says Kacary. “When somebody shops with an independent deli, farm shop, butcher, baker or local producer, the money doesn’t disappear into a national system; it tends to stay within the local economy for longer. It supports local jobs, local suppliers, local tradespeople and ultimately helps keep independent high streets alive.”
Cuomo agrees, and regularly calls upon a local workforce to build upon this ‘local pound’ too. “We employ over 85 people locally, and with other on-site businesses that rises to around 100–125 jobs in total. Around 40% of our stock is Kent-supplied, and that includes services as well as products – electricians, builders, accountants, insurance and so on.”
“A significant amount of economic value flows into the business and back out again, and a large proportion of it stays within the regional economy. This also has a self-reinforcing effect; if someone recommends us when they are visiting the area, it helps keep visitors in the region for longer because there is a strong network of places to visit.”
As well as maintaining close and supportive relationships with customers in the community, developing relationships with local producers is also key, and can have a profound impact on local business.
“Supporting local businesses sits at the very centre of what we do,” says Kacary. “A huge amount of our range comes from Norfolk and East Anglian producers, and we actively look for ways to help those businesses reach wider audiences. One of the advantages we have as a deli is that we can combine products from multiple local producers into a single order, hamper or gifting experience. That allows smaller producers to benefit from collective visibility rather than trying to compete individually.
“For us, shopping locally isn’t just about buying food. It’s about protecting identity, craftsmanship and community. Norfolk has some extraordinary producers making cheeses, spirits, chutneys, sauces, beers and baked goods that deserve to be discovered and supported. If independents don’t champion those businesses, many of them simply don’t get the visibility they deserve.”
“We’ve always made a point to stock locally-produced goods, finding many suppliers at London food markets,” agrees Davies. “We also supply many local businesses and events with catering. 90% of our suppliers are London-based, and well over 50% of our produce is locally-made.”
What’s heartening to see is that the support for local suppliers, products and in turn the community is a symbiotic relationship, with communities supporting indies and indies supporting communities reciprocally. “The local community has shaped the business enormously,” explains Kacary. “Being based in Hunstanton means we operate in a seaside town with a mixture of loyal locals, second-home owners, tourists and food lovers visiting the coast. Over time, customers have helped shape everything from the products we stock through to the services we offer. Our cheesemonger’s selection boxes, picnic offerings and gifting solutions have all grown from conversations with customers and understanding what people actually wanted.
“Independents naturally become part of the wider fabric of a town and community. We regularly support local causes, collaborate with local businesses and help promote other independents where we can. We also try to create opportunities for local producers by giving them visibility they might otherwise struggle to achieve on their own. We try our best to do things to bring people into Hunstanton.”
Davies agrees: “We try to get involved in and promote local events as much as possible. We also plant a tree with every online order, because we believe businesses should think not just about commerce, but about longterm responsibility, too.”
● Don’t just stock local products, actively champion them. Tell the stories behind the products and the people making them. Help customers understand why buying local matters. Use your platforms whether that’s social media, newsletters or your website to elevate producers rather than simply treating them as suppliers.
● Collaboration is key: independents and producers shouldn’t see themselves as operating separately. The strongest local food economies are built when producers, retailers and communities work together to create visibility and opportunities for one another.
● Never underestimate the value of knowledge and personality. Independents can’t compete with supermarkets on volume or pricing, but they can compete on expertise, authenticity, service and experience – increasingly, that’s exactly what customers are looking for.