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For fine food retailers, a sale is never just a transaction. Samples are offered, questions asked and suggestions given. Conversations are, in fact, part of the reason many shoppers love visiting farm shops, delis and food halls.
“So many places have become self-service or faceless; even ordering screens are replacing counter staff in some coffee shops,” says Morven Kerr, who runs Idle Hands Shop & Bakery in the Scottish village of Dunlop. “Independent retailers can offer something different. We remember people, their routines and preferences. We know who takes half a brown sugar in their flat white as they come through the door and whose favourite sausage roll needs to be put aside because they can’t get in until mid-afternoon.
“Customers often joke they only came in for olives but leave feeling like they’ve had therapy,” Morven says.
Speciality Food speaks to three fine food retailers to find out the lessons they’ve learned in building community with their shops.
Moz Murphy of grate in Newcastle was looking for a site in 2020 and assumed that being in the city centre was a must for footfall. “Had I done that, I’d have gone out of business when the pandemic hit.” Instead, from the shop’s base in Jesmond, just north of the city, “I’m a neighbourhood shop, I have lots of regular customers and know their families, and it makes it much more of a community feel,” Moz explains. “It also means I can be more honest with my customers; they take a real interest in what’s going on business-wise.”
For Simon Jones, co-owner of the Forest Deli in a small town in the Forest of Dean, community-building started before even opening the shop’s doors. “As we already lived here, we spoke to all the other traders in town to ensure they knew what we were planning, and making sure not to take trade from existing businesses,” he explains.
“Most of the businesses are still here, and as all the businesses are owner-run it is vital that we work together, from watching a door when having a comfort break to sharing information about local news and potential risks,” Simon says.
Shops can support one another financially as well. “Our block has a coffee shop, an amazing restaurant, a baker’s and a proper greengrocer, and we all buy and sell to each other daily, so we keep the local economy moving,” he adds.
Collaboration with other local shops is essential, agrees Morven. Idle Hands is based in a village of only around 1,000 people, so it isn’t just food and drink shops supporting one another. “A lovely gift and homewares shop has opened across from us, and more recently a hair salon has opened within the village hall (commercial space is limited in Dunlop, so everyone has had to be creative!) and we actively send customers each other’s way. When one business succeeds, it benefits the village as a whole.”
Creating community centres around building relationships with customers, Moz says. “Without them, I have no job!” But it’s important not to forget what the products you stock on your shelves say about your brand. “Making the right choices with who we work with, products we source, even having recyclable packaging, or allowing customers to bring their own containers – we are part of a global community after all, and I feel it’s important to set out our ‘brand’ as ethically as possible,” Moz continues.
Building strong relationships with suppliers can only benefit your shop. “We buy as much as we can direct so the producer and us get the best deal, and we will pick up from other producers as well,” Simon says.
“On a Friday, I pick up meat from a farm, and the local butter drops off for me there to pick up, so we all work together and focus on true local and quality.”
The Forest Deli takes pride in supporting local producers of all shapes and sizes – so when customers buy from them, they’re helping their local community in more ways than one. “You can get a full breakfast without going to a supermarket: bread, butter, bacon, sausages, sauce, milk and apple juice. Including us, that has supported eight local businesses, which is true community.”
Alongside building customer relationships and supporting other local businesses, creating reasons for people to come together is one of the key pillars for building community, according to Morven.
“Practically, we’ve found that creating opportunities for people to connect works well. Earlier this year we launched the ‘Idle Hands Sporadic Sunday Run Club’. People of all ages and abilities join us for a 5k around the village before returning for coffee and pastries,” Morven says. “We’ve even attracted sponsorship from drinks companies, which has made it even more rewarding for participants.
“We’re now planning a walking group based on the same idea: grabbing a coffee, going for a wander and giving people the chance to meet and chat.”
The shop is always finding new ways to reach out to customers – building goodwill and, in turn, loyal shoppers. “Recently we’ve also started delivering pinsa on Wednesday evenings,” Morven says. “Many rural communities struggle to access good takeaway delivery services, so it’s become a popular midweek treat and another way of staying connected with customers beyond our normal opening hours.”
Going above and beyond for customers is the indie shop way. With an older demographic in town, much of Simon’s day is spent talking to customers while they do their shopping and checking in on regulars. “We do deliveries locally and will take shopping to their house, and also take what other shopping they need from town,” Simon says. “It’s part and parcel of small town life. We could be the only person they talk to on that day.”
For grate, it’s also important to support local charities that have been brought to the team’s attention by customers.
“When the government decided not to feed children during the school holidays, we became a collection point for a couple of local chefs who made pies, pasties, tray bakes for people in need,” Moz says. “It was a no brainer for me, and I think we helped a lot of people.
“Since then, we’ve responded to particular charitable requests that feel in line with who we are, be that raising money for Maggie’s centre, or helping support an indie LGBTQIA event,” Moz says.
You may not always be able to say yes, but your shop can really make a difference in the local community. “It’s difficult to turn down a request for fundraising, but we do what we can for causes that we believe in.”
In Simon’s experience, community builds itself naturally with like-minded people. “The key is that all have to want to be involved, not for individual financial gain. If we all do it well, we will all benefit,” he says.
Morven agrees. “One of the biggest lessons we’ve learned is that community can’t be forced. It has to be genuine. People can tell the difference between an event that’s been organised simply to drive sales and one that’s been created because the owners genuinely want to bring people together.”