Why getting started with affinage is easier than you think

The finest cheeses require the finest care, but that doesn’t have to mean atmospheric – in more ways than one – cellars with the latest tech to ensure optimal conditions. In fact, armed with an understanding of rind development, a desired end result in mind and surprisingly simple kit, you can present your cheese at its very best.

The start of your journey into affinage may well have been kickstarted by the artistry of the skill; something which Ned Palmer, seasoned cheesemonger and writer, is continuously inspired by. “When I first discovered affinage, it was magic to me,” he begins, and that appreciation of its poetry has never left him. “It really connects you to the cheese you’re selling and the incredible skill of its maker, and it’s such a pleasure to shepherd incredible cheese on its journey to being at its absolute best.”

As with all art, affinage requires an investment of time. “You want to get your cheese looking its best and tasting fantastic, so you have to invest time and gain a little knowledge,” says Patricia Michelson of La Fromagerie. “The whole point of refining and ageing is time and checking how the cheese is responding to the atmospheric conditions of your ageing space – and remember once a cheese is opened all the ripening process stops, so sell the cheese as quickly as possible. It’s like grooming – taking pride in your product and also the way you look after it.”

Limited resources? No problem

A lack of space may not be the hurdle you think it is. “Limited space and budget are not an issue,” says Emma Young, The Cheese Explorer. “In fact, a lot of affinage started with ‘bricolage’ or DIY, and this is still how a lot of it is done to this day on a small scale as it is so effective. Smaller batches and quantities of cheese can be much easier to control.”

“If you haven’t got an ageing room with humidity then the best you can do, even if it’s just a basic fridge, is to introduce some humidity. Try lining a tupperware box with dampened paper towel and then lay your cheeses – a single type – on waxed paper in the box. Close the lid and you have created a little humidity chamber,” suggests Patricia. Check for the mould development of soft cheeses and the “glisten” of washed rind cheeses.

If large cheeses such as Brie de Meaux arrive rock hard, place them on the straw mat from their wooden box in a heavy duty bin bag, and leave in a cool – but not the coldest – part of your fridge, says Patricia.

A learnable instinct

When Ned was at the start of his affinage career, he once asked cheese legend Bill Oglethorpe why its care couldn’t be an algorithm – a simple ratio of temperature to time. “If you don’t play with your cheese, it will play with you,” was his response. It’s a question of really feeling the cheese; understanding what it needs in the moment and responding in kind. “Perhaps the maker was in a bad mood when he was making this batch so added in more salt than usual, or the weather is playing up,” says Ned. “You need to understand the optimum balance of the cheese and keep it happy; ultimately, your main job is to not mess up this incredible creation of a skilled cheesemaker.”

Once you’ve familiarised yourself with the physical set-up of affinage and understood the varying needs of your cheeses, the moment has come to master your timings. “There are ways to speed up and slow down the ripening process but never to halt it,” says Emma.

“Time is one of the key factors of affinage, so it can be manipulated slightly, however to look for a quick fix defeats the whole object of affinage and will not give the desired results. We have to be patient as affineurs! And we have to predict what will happen next based on our knowledge… and to know how to react when things start to go down a different path.” Check out Mons’ courses for an in-depth injection of know-how.

Remember, especially if you really don’t have the time or resources to get into the affinage game – or simply don’t have the appetite to – the role of wholesalers and especially wholesalers/affineurs is to provide retailers with cheese at their optimum state, even to your distinct specifications, reminds Emma.

Ultimately, affinage is an artform – but some of the best creativity hails from challenging situations. If you’ve believed you need rafts of underground chambers, perfectly humidified and temperature-gauged, to present optimum cheese to your customers, we hope the above will inspire you to create perfection with what you have.

Affinage at a glance

Patricia’s guide to perfectly cared-for cheeses

GOAT: you want a beautiful rippled natural rind that adheres closely to the cheese for younger cheeses.
BLOOMY RINDED: you want to see a lovely white mould development that is not dry, cracked or weeping – I want to taste the whole cheese from croute to aime (crust to heart).
WASHED RIND: you don’t want to see too dark brown edges or heaven help dry and hard coat – you want a beautiful bright and glistening outer rind that has a good earthy aroma and once cut open melts at the edges with the heart still intact.
HARD: you want a crust that is even and well cared for – brushed to remove dust mite and not brittle.
BLUE: you want to see an even development of the blue veining – and the crust to not be too dry and not too wet. You can keep blues much colder than other cheeses but keep an eye on them that they don’t start to weep.