The international cheeses you need to sell

“The British have had a long love affair with foreign cheeses,” begins Ned Palmer, ambassador to the EU’s More Than Only Food & Drink campaign. “In the 19th and early 20th century foreign cheese was known as ‘fancy cheese’ and considered more of a treat than our native types.

“British cheese is now highly regarded, but in 2024 the UK still imported around 450,000 tonnes, that’s about a quarter of all the cheese consumed in Britain, and an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Up to ninety-eight percent of those imports come from the European Union and about 12% is sold in speciality shops and delis,” he explains.

What’s selling?

“Speaking to British cheesemongers, the core range of imported cheese contains few surprises. Comté is unfailingly popular. Moz Murphy, owner of Grate Newcastle says ‘there isn’t a day where I don’t sell a piece of Comté’. Brie and Camembert still hold their own against UK versions like Tunworth and Baron Bigod, Parmesan is a kitchen staple, and the craze for Burrata shows no sign of abating. Manchego appeared on the UK cheeseboard with the rise of cheap package holidays to Spain and now discerning cheese fans seek out artisanal versions.”

Well-aged Dutch Gouda is again popular, as it was in London in the 15th century. “The new kid on the block,” says Ned, “is the indulgent Délice de Bourgogne, a triple-cream style cows’ milk cheese. Caroline Elliot of Darlington Cheese and Wine refers to it as ‘the crack cocaine of cheese’, a description her customers have enthusiastically adopted. Novelty can be a good selling point – Murphy offers the French blue Fourme d’Ambert as a less punchy alternative to Roquefort, and also finds that its distinctive appearance attracts customers.”

Starting a conversation with customers is always the best way to promote and sell foreign cheese, says Ned. “Caroline locates ‘the education of the cheesemonger’ at the core of this craft, which means getting to know the cheeses well yourself, learning where the cheese comes from and being familiar with its history and making.” 

Seasonality as a selling tool

“Seasonality can be a big draw for customers, for example building excitement around the approach of Vacherin season, or offering cheeses appropriate to the time of year,” advises Ned. “That might mean Burrata or Feta for summer salads and rich piquant blues like Roquefort or the mighty Spanish Cabrales for winter warmth.

“Offering a tasting event – even as a loss leader – can expand your customers’ horizons, and here creative, thought provoking pairings are helpful.

“Try matching a cheese with produce from its home country or region – Parmesan and balsamic vinegar for example, or tying your theme in with current events, so when England are playing France at the rugby or football, try showing a British beer with a French cheese. You can always offer these pairings on the counter if an actual event feels like too much.

“The market for Continental cheese is strong, even among the most patriotic of UK consumers, and selling them means taking care of the fundamentals: curate your range mindfully, with a mix of core cheeses and interesting alternatives, get the best cheeses you can and make sure they are at their best on your counter, know your cheeses and your producers well and share this knowledge with love and joy.”

Top-selling international cheeses

Jen Grimstone-Jones of Cheese Etc/The Pangbourne Cheese Shop lists her most popular cheeses from overseas

• Irish – Gubbeen (smoked and unsmoked), Cashel Blue, Crozier Blue
• French – Brie, Camembert, Ossau-Iraty PDO, Roquefort PDO, Crottin de Chavignol PDO, Chevre Buche (and a smoked version), St Maure de Touraine PDO, Brebirousse d’Argental Bleu d’Auvergne PDO, Bleu des Causses PDO, Raclette, Epoisses PDO, Mimolette and 2 ages of Comté PDO (12 and 30 month)
• Italian – Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, various Pecorinos, Dolcelatte, Gorgonzola PDO (we sell the Dolce and get through a 6kg wheel every 2 days), Mozzarella di Bufala, Burrata
• Swiss – Le Gruyère AOP, Emmenthaler AOP, Stärnächäs
• Spanish – Manchego PDO, Murcia al Vino, Valdeón Blue PGI
• Dutch – Gouda (mild, four year old, cumin, truffle)
• Norwegian – Gjetost, Jarlsberg
• Greek – Feta PDO
• Cypriot – Halloumi
• German – Montagnolo

Dispatches from Brazil

Emma Young, AKA The Cheese Explorer, reports on her recent trip to the Mundial do queijo do Brasil - a cheese competition and festival held in Sao Paolo, Brazil

“Brazil has never traditionally been a cheese-dominant country, with just a handful notable as typical Brazilian cheeses, such as Canastra and Minas Frescal. There is however a lot of land, a lot of milk and an ever-growing demand from farmers and cheesemakers for knowledge and training.

“Their spirit is very technically driven, looking deeply into factors such as milk composition and artisan cheesemaking techniques but with the spin of a blank canvas and therefore room for innovation and interpretation. Having quite a blank canvas means that you can find many styles of cheeses made in Brazil – many being influenced by cheesemaking techniques and recipes in Europe.

“The typical Brazilian palate is quite tame, so strong blues, strong washed rinds and lively natural rinds are in smaller numbers. Where in the last competition in 2024, it was hard to define ‘Brazilian cheese’ as there was a bit of everything, this time, the styles had funnelled down into the majority being cheeses suited to the climate and Arnaud Sperat Czar/ palate – semi-hard and hard long aged cheeses with salty, spicy flavours such as those in Southern Italy as well as cheeses with sweet flavours from cultures and additional elements (the Brazilians have a VERY sweet tooth).

“Some cheeses were heavily influenced by cheeses made in Europe such as spruce bound soft cheeses and crumbly blues.

“Alongside the Continental and long aged cheeses, Brazilian cheesemakers use a lot of creativity – this year I saw cheeses marbled with Spirulina to create a marbled blue effect and another using cacao. Last year, Brazilian cheese history was made, as Essex Street Cheese in the USA became the first to ever receive an exported Brazilian cheese, namely Mandala by Pardinho Artesenal. Watch this space, UK!”