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It was front-page-worthy news when the World Health Organisation labelled processed meat, such as bacon, as a cause of cancer a decade ago.
Some of the chemicals linking processed meat to cancer are nitrates and nitrites, according to Cancer Research UK. But in the years since, these have continued to be added to many bacon and ham products on the market as part of the standard curing process.
Speciality Food breaks down what nitrates and nitrites are, why they’re in the spotlight again, and how fine food retailers can benefit from falling demand for processed meats.
Nitrates and nitrites are introduced to meat through the curing process. For instance, sodium nitrite is often mixed with salt to create a curing salt that stops the growth of dangerous bacteria and preserves the bacon’s flavour and colour.
This is all important for extending the shelf-life of bacon and keeping it safe; however, when nitrite-cured bacon is thrown onto your sizzling hot frying pan, it can create nitrosamines, some of which are known carcinogens.
As the Food Standards Agency explains on a dedicated page, it’s a complicated area where the science is still developing, and the FSA’s position recognises both the role of nitrates and nitrites in food safety and their potential health risks.
However, with consumers becoming more aware of ultra-processed foods and their potential risks, campaigners’ data has shown that many are choosing to avoid nitrite-cured meats and instead are moving to alternatives, sales of which are booming.
The value of nitrite-cured bacon sales dropped by 7.3%, or £18.7m, during a 12-week period in January compared to the previous year, according to data from Worldpanel by Numerator and published by the Coalition Against Nitrites. Meanwhile, sales of nitrite-free alternatives rose 21.7% to £9.4m.
A spokesperson for the group called it a “consumer revolt”.
While some brands may be looking to move away from nitrates and nitrites in response to changing consumer demand, for many producers of quality meat avoiding artificial preservatives has always been the norm.
At The Organic Butchery, the team has always strived to produce food as naturally as possible. “From the beginning, we’ve focused on traditional butchery and organic farming standards, which means avoiding unnecessary additives wherever we can,” explains Russell Burton, head butcher.
“Our nitrate-free bacon and cured products are a continuation of that philosophy rather than a recent change,” he continues. “We work with carefully sourced organic pork and use simple, traditional curing methods, allowing the quality of the meat itself to be the focus. For us, nitrate-free isn’t a marketing decision so much as part of our wider commitment to transparency, minimal processing and high-welfare farming.”
It’s a similar story at Beacon Farms, which was founded by farmers to rebuild the connection between consumers and the people who produce their food. As James, farmer and co-founder, explains, “Reducing our reliance on artificial additives and preservatives has been a natural extension of what we stand for.
“We work closely with farmers who prioritise high welfare standards, environmental responsibility, and producing exceptional quality meat. By shortening the supply chain and connecting consumers directly with the source of their food, we remove the need for many of the artificial interventions typically used to prolong shelf life,” James continues.
Instead of using preservatives, Beacon Farms has invested in traditional butchery skills alongside modern blast freezing technology, which locks in texture and flavour much better than conventional freezing. “This allows us to preserve meat at its peak without compromising on quality or adding unnecessary ingredients.”
It’s a more sustainable process all around. “This approach also enables us to work in harmony with natural farming cycles, carry out whole carcass butchery with minimal waste, and ensure every cut is aged and prepared to the highest standard before being frozen,” James says. “The result is meat that is as good on day 100 as it was on day one, without relying on artificial preservatives.”
And while removing the preservatives from the process does change the flavour, in Russell’s experience it’s for the better. “Nitrate-free bacon tastes more like bacon should: richer, more natural and with the flavour of the pork coming through properly,” he explains.
At The Organic Butchery, they cure their bacon simply using natural salt and Demerara sugar, “which also gives it a subtle sweetness that customers really enjoy. It’s a much more traditional curing method that lets the quality of the meat do the talking,” Russell says.
However, there is an element of education needed for anyone selling more traditionally cured bacon. “One of the biggest things we’ve had to educate customers about is the colour. Supermarkets have made people used to very pink bacon, but that colour largely comes from added nitrates and nitrites.
“Naturally cured, nitrate-free bacon tends to be a little greyer in colour, but that’s completely normal and exactly how traditionally cured bacon should look,” Russell explains.
Both The Organic Butchery and Beacon Farms have witnessed rapidly growing interest from consumers, many of whom are looking more closely at how their food is produced.
“In particular, many people want cured meats made with fewer additives or more traditional methods, and nitrate-free options naturally fit with that shift,” Russell says. “While flavour and quality remain the primary drivers for our customers, the move towards simpler, more recognisable ingredients is something we’ve seen become more prominent in recent years.”
Beacon Farms has seen “a really positive response from customers” as they moved to a new preserving method. “There is a growing awareness around food transparency and ingredients, and people genuinely value knowing their meat is free from unnecessary additives,” James says.
“Many of our customers tell us the difference in taste and texture is remarkable,” he continues. And the freezing method has been a hit, too. “They appreciate the convenience of being able to stock their freezer without worrying about quality deteriorating.”
Russell believes the broader shift we’re seeing towards simpler, more transparent food production is likely to continue. “People are becoming more interested in where their food comes from, how animals are raised and what goes into the products they eat,” he says.
“Nitrate-free products are part of that wider movement toward traditional methods and cleaner ingredient lists. Ultimately, though, flavour and quality will always matter most — and when customers taste traditionally cured, well-sourced bacon, they often appreciate the difference.”
For farm shops and delis, selling minimally processed meats comes naturally by being part of smaller supply chains. To build on consumers’ interest, consider highlighting the difference between traditionally cured bacon and products using artificial preservatives. As Russell explained, a bit of education may be needed around the change in flavour and colour – but once they taste the difference, they’re likely to keep coming back.
While the conversation around nitrates and nitrites is undoubtedly complicated, the goal for James is “to deliver naturally better meat while supporting skilled farmers and butchers, and helping maintain and preserve sustainable and transparent food systems for the future”. We can all agree with that.